DIY Flying Pipe

[bquad]

I have set myself the following goals:

- easy to transport,
- suitable for wind and weather,
- very manoeuvrable,
- reliable and easy to maintain,
- less than 2 kg depending on the payload,
- half an hour flight time.

I finished the mechanics yesterday. A mechanic weighs 388 g with installed 280 mm rotor blades.




For the frame I use a 24 mm carbon tube with 1 mm wall thickness. There should be room for 6s2p VTC6 in the tube.




I'm still undecided on the ESC . It will either be a quadrocopter ESC , in which case I would have to program the soft start in the spark and would need additional BEC , possibly also a heat sink, or I use full-fledged heli ESC , there are BEC , heat sink, soft start and governor integrated, but they weigh 43 g each . Well, I'm probably not much easier with a quadrocopter ESC including cooling and BEC .

 

[bquad]

Correction: The original is of course the CH-46 "Sea Knight" or CH-47 "Chinook".

The first engine mount is fitted. The tube stays at its full 1m length, leaving more room for payload and the rear rotor spinning in less turbulent air in forward flight.

I have to go through the mix again in my mind, because I intend not only to use the difference in thrust between nose and tail on the pitch axis, but also to add some cyclic pitch.

 

[bquad]

You don't see much progress yet, I've gone through different options for ESC assembly, from quadcopter ESC and BEC in the tube to 4-in -1 under the FC down to Heli- ESC on the pipe.

In the end I ended up with Heli- ESC in front of and behind the pipe. To do this, I dismantled and turned the engine mounts again before gluing, so that the connection cables for the engines came out on the right side.

The ESCcome in housings that are pushed onto the tube at the front and rear and clamped onto the motor mount (snap-fit). The connectors to the battery disappear in the tube, the whole thing is switched on via a shorting plug (Dean's T-plug). It is charged either in the copter or the battery is pulled out after loosening the ESC .

At the moment I don't know what to do with the GPS. Standing up the GPS between the rotors would be an obvious choice, but that also blocks the space where a payload would be best kept.

Do you have an idea how to solve this elegantly?



The ESC back in shrink tubing, if in doubt I can still seal the front sides.

I also have suitable weather protection in stock, but it weighs an extra 114 g.