Hello Everyone,
I've been active in the copter scene for about 2 years now, starting with GPS battleships. I've been flying racers for 1 1/2 years now and at the beginning I had the same problem as you! The PIDs got on my nerves so much that I almost gave up racing. After hours of serious reading in English, French, etc. about various theories of PIDs, loop times, etc., I finally got the hang of it and made my own experiences in PID tuning. For myself, I was able to filter out what I thought was the best way from all the instructions and was able to help a lot of people with PID tuning.
Since the topic keeps coming up with the increasing number of people building racers etc., I was asked to create this thread so that everyone can benefit from my instructions, which are said to have helped many. Although some flattered me as a PID master etc. (thanks again for that 
) , but I would like to mention that I am of course not infallible or could even create my own versions of Cleanflight etc. like Boris B. or other well-known racer pilots! Therefore, I hope I can help many with the instructions! I would also be very happy about discussions, questions etc. about PID settings. I'll help where I can or I'll read up so I can help ;-) I'm now copying my instructions down here, which I've already written in another thread. I hope you can help! If you have any questions, get out!
P VALUE: -
First of all, you set everything to default or to low values that cannot already be heard overriding with default values. Defaults usually do it. Now you go into acro mode, this is very important! Tuning PID's in a level mode or similar is NOT functional and will not work. The basic PIDs must be flown in acro because the little helper modes are based on these values. You take EACH AXLE INDIVIDUALLY! It's best to start with the pitch axis. You now gradually increase the P value until you notice that your racer begins to swing. Sounds like a high-pitched chirp. It will oscillate or call it most vibrate. As soon as you have reached this point, you lower the P-value so far that the racer no longer oscillates/vibrates in normal hover (not flying around great). You do this afterwards with Roll. Yaw can be left as it is in many respects, but in principle it would be tuned in a similar way - only the finesse and limits are less noticeable/visible. If you have now done this for each axis individually and one after the other, continue to the D value.
D VALUE:-
Now comes the dear D-value. You do this very simply. As always, EACH AXLE INDIVIDUALLY. Here, too, it is best to start with pitch first. You hover the copter in front of you at a height that you like. But best at eye level so that you can see the vibrations/oscillations that will occur without a tuned D value. Now you give a brutal kick on the pitch axis (or later roll and yaw) forward and after 1-2 meters you end the forward flight again with a brutal short control deflection. Upon initiating and exiting with these brutal control inputs, the copter will briefly and aggressively oscillate/vibrate. You now increase the D value for the respective axis until these vibrations/oscillations are NO LONGER or HARDLY AVAILABLE. No longer available is almost better because the flight is cleaner and there are no vibrations during flight. You can apply this to each axis in the same way. Yaw is tricky here again because everything is more difficult to see there 
If your racer no longer oscillates/vibrates when you give brutal, fast stick commands, you have a very good D value! Let's get to the dear I value!
I VALUE:-
The I value is actually almost the simplest of all. With a well-adjusted P and D value, you can actually get started without any problems. The I value is not absolutely necessary for a good and inherently stable flight. But will still be loved if well adjusted. You do this very easily. You are now hovering around in front of your nose or at eye level, the racer will be noticeably more inherently stable than with bad PID tuning. Now you do pitch on the first axis again, if you want you can of course also set roll as the first axis To do this, you give a short, brutal control deflection forward so that the copter begins to fly forward. DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS etc.! The copter will logically fall through the forward flight. Shortly before the ground you accelerate so that it doesn't smack you into the ground. If the copter or racer maintains the identical angle that you previously gave with the short but aggressive stick command, the I value is already okay and can possibly even be reduced. However, if the racer automatically straightens up again (you're flying in acro, so it's not allowed to do that) or wants to bring itself back to the horizontal, you have to increase the I value until it maintains the angle! This can also be set very well with Roll. With Yaw it's tricky as always - but the basic values with Yaw are completely fine for 95% of the copters.
TPA/TREMB AT THROTTLE:
Congratulations to all those who have persevered so far and, above all, have read my novel. Your copter is now almost perfectly tuned. Possibly only small fine tunings (which you probably don't notice anyway at the beginning because joy etc. that it finally worked with the PIDs) or small changes. You should now have a racer in front of you that reacts abnormally inherently stable in hover and also in flight.
You will probably find out now that if you give the dear racer the spurs, he will thank you for it by starting to vibrate/oscillate. Well, preferably in the garbage with it Joking aside. You can now set the TPA value. This regulates the PIDs down as a percentage, depending on how high your stick position is. But that's where the core of the poodle is buried. The higher the gas value, the deeper the PID's are screwed.... The deeper the PID's, etc., the more spongy and restless the whole thing becomes, as you can see with Manu's Infernale. The fact that we can successfully counteract this is the so-called Throttle TPA. With this value you enter the value from which your racer/copter starts to fuss. Let's assume that the trembling starts at a control value of 1600, then you enter 1600 there. Depending on when he does it.
This value is used to determine that the TPA control only takes effect from this value and below this value NO PID DOWN CONTROL is carried out. From this value, the PIDs are then automatically reduced until the gas value falls below the specified value again. It is best to work as little as necessary with TPA because, as described above, depending on the gas position, it makes the copter more unstable due to the automated down-regulation of the PIDs.
GENERAL:-
The lower your I and D values, the snappier and more precise your copter will be. I and D values that are too high make the entire racer react more spongy. Unfortunately, a precise "locked in" feeling will NOT occur. Therefore, only as much I and D value as necessary for you to experience the full "Locked In" fun.
For beginners in PID tuning or those who want to take their first steps, I recommend PID controller 1. This is the most problem-free controller for almost all copters and will not cause any problems. With controller 2 or even 5 (Harakiri) there can be problems with some setups/frames that no matter what you do, the PID tuning does not want to fit. Especially Harakiri is a present, bitchy female. Controller 1 and 2 are actually problem-free. I definitely do not recommend PID Controller 0 for beginners. Unfortunately, everything is somehow connected with the controller. If you change the loop time, rate's or something else, you almost have to reset the PID's again because they are influenced. Quite understandable given the loop time change,
In the case of X-Racers/copters, one can generally say that roll and pitch PIDs can be taken over 1 to 1. Unfortunately, this will not work with H-Quads. There, roll/pitch must be set separately.
PIDs should be set with the setup that will actually be flown later. If major changes in weight or center of gravity take place, a retuning of the PIDs is sometimes absolutely necessary.
If a modular setup is used à la "today I'll slap the XiaoMi on it instead of the Mobius and take the 1500 battery instead of the 1800" should always be set with the HARDEST setup. If the
If the PID's are set to the lightest setup, it may be that with heavier setups the copter then partly rocks, trembles at the end of the maneuver (D value) or does other stuff. Therefore always set with the heavier setup, which should be used.
With this guide you should now have a good flying racer. Fine tuning can always be used, but to start with most of you won't notice any finesse that would require night tuning. If you like my instructions and have read the novel to the end, were able to benefit from it or were successful, I would of course be happy to receive feedback, "I like" or something similar ;-)
If you have any questions or if you notice strange behavior etc., you can of course also ask here. In the next few days I will try to address other important information such as the different PID controllers, loop times etc. so that the thread should be of some value for every newcomer and also for the more experienced ;-)
I've been active in the copter scene for about 2 years now, starting with GPS battleships. I've been flying racers for 1 1/2 years now and at the beginning I had the same problem as you! The PIDs got on my nerves so much that I almost gave up racing. After hours of serious reading in English, French, etc. about various theories of PIDs, loop times, etc., I finally got the hang of it and made my own experiences in PID tuning. For myself, I was able to filter out what I thought was the best way from all the instructions and was able to help a lot of people with PID tuning.
Since the topic keeps coming up with the increasing number of people building racers etc., I was asked to create this thread so that everyone can benefit from my instructions, which are said to have helped many. Although some flattered me as a PID master etc. (thanks again for that
P VALUE: -
First of all, you set everything to default or to low values that cannot already be heard overriding with default values. Defaults usually do it. Now you go into acro mode, this is very important! Tuning PID's in a level mode or similar is NOT functional and will not work. The basic PIDs must be flown in acro because the little helper modes are based on these values. You take EACH AXLE INDIVIDUALLY! It's best to start with the pitch axis. You now gradually increase the P value until you notice that your racer begins to swing. Sounds like a high-pitched chirp. It will oscillate or call it most vibrate. As soon as you have reached this point, you lower the P-value so far that the racer no longer oscillates/vibrates in normal hover (not flying around great). You do this afterwards with Roll. Yaw can be left as it is in many respects, but in principle it would be tuned in a similar way - only the finesse and limits are less noticeable/visible. If you have now done this for each axis individually and one after the other, continue to the D value.
D VALUE:-
Now comes the dear D-value. You do this very simply. As always, EACH AXLE INDIVIDUALLY. Here, too, it is best to start with pitch first. You hover the copter in front of you at a height that you like. But best at eye level so that you can see the vibrations/oscillations that will occur without a tuned D value. Now you give a brutal kick on the pitch axis (or later roll and yaw) forward and after 1-2 meters you end the forward flight again with a brutal short control deflection. Upon initiating and exiting with these brutal control inputs, the copter will briefly and aggressively oscillate/vibrate. You now increase the D value for the respective axis until these vibrations/oscillations are NO LONGER or HARDLY AVAILABLE. No longer available is almost better because the flight is cleaner and there are no vibrations during flight. You can apply this to each axis in the same way. Yaw is tricky here again because everything is more difficult to see there
I VALUE:-
The I value is actually almost the simplest of all. With a well-adjusted P and D value, you can actually get started without any problems. The I value is not absolutely necessary for a good and inherently stable flight. But will still be loved if well adjusted. You do this very easily. You are now hovering around in front of your nose or at eye level, the racer will be noticeably more inherently stable than with bad PID tuning. Now you do pitch on the first axis again, if you want you can of course also set roll as the first axis
TPA/TREMB AT THROTTLE:
Congratulations to all those who have persevered so far and, above all, have read my novel. Your copter is now almost perfectly tuned. Possibly only small fine tunings (which you probably don't notice anyway at the beginning because joy etc. that it finally worked with the PIDs) or small changes. You should now have a racer in front of you that reacts abnormally inherently stable in hover and also in flight.
You will probably find out now that if you give the dear racer the spurs, he will thank you for it by starting to vibrate/oscillate. Well, preferably in the garbage with it
This value is used to determine that the TPA control only takes effect from this value and below this value NO PID DOWN CONTROL is carried out. From this value, the PIDs are then automatically reduced until the gas value falls below the specified value again. It is best to work as little as necessary with TPA because, as described above, depending on the gas position, it makes the copter more unstable due to the automated down-regulation of the PIDs.
GENERAL:-
The lower your I and D values, the snappier and more precise your copter will be. I and D values that are too high make the entire racer react more spongy. Unfortunately, a precise "locked in" feeling will NOT occur. Therefore, only as much I and D value as necessary for you to experience the full "Locked In" fun.
For beginners in PID tuning or those who want to take their first steps, I recommend PID controller 1. This is the most problem-free controller for almost all copters and will not cause any problems. With controller 2 or even 5 (Harakiri) there can be problems with some setups/frames that no matter what you do, the PID tuning does not want to fit. Especially Harakiri is a present, bitchy female. Controller 1 and 2 are actually problem-free. I definitely do not recommend PID Controller 0 for beginners. Unfortunately, everything is somehow connected with the controller. If you change the loop time, rate's or something else, you almost have to reset the PID's again because they are influenced. Quite understandable given the loop time change,
In the case of X-Racers/copters, one can generally say that roll and pitch PIDs can be taken over 1 to 1. Unfortunately, this will not work with H-Quads. There, roll/pitch must be set separately.
PIDs should be set with the setup that will actually be flown later. If major changes in weight or center of gravity take place, a retuning of the PIDs is sometimes absolutely necessary.
If a modular setup is used à la "today I'll slap the XiaoMi on it instead of the Mobius and take the 1500 battery instead of the 1800" should always be set with the HARDEST setup. If the
If the PID's are set to the lightest setup, it may be that with heavier setups the copter then partly rocks, trembles at the end of the maneuver (D value) or does other stuff. Therefore always set with the heavier setup, which should be used.
With this guide you should now have a good flying racer. Fine tuning can always be used, but to start with most of you won't notice any finesse that would require night tuning. If you like my instructions and have read the novel to the end, were able to benefit from it or were successful, I would of course be happy to receive feedback, "I like" or something similar ;-)
If you have any questions or if you notice strange behavior etc., you can of course also ask here. In the next few days I will try to address other important information such as the different PID controllers, loop times etc. so that the thread should be of some value for every newcomer and also for the more experienced ;-)
